Rappel
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[edit] Introduction: Canyoneering Rappel
Rappelling, or abseiling as it is known outside the USA, is really what separates technical canyoneering from canyon hiking. It is the first obvious place ropecraft begins in the canyon. There are occasions when exiting a canyon requires technical climbing, but these are less common than negotiating dryfalls going down-canyon.
Ropecraft is inherently dangerous as it involves using a rope to prevent a potentially lethal fall. This means if there are errors in the anchor, the belay, the rappel rig, or the rappel itself, the canyoneer risks injury and death. These pages are not meant to substitute for appropriate training and instruction. Canyoneers who are first learning to rappel should seek professional guidance.
The trick of canyon rappelling is to do it safely and to retrieve the rope. Safety comes with preparation, attention to detail and a secure anchor. Rope retrieval can be done by either a double-strand rappel or by 'biner block. Once down, pull the rope and abandon the anchor.
Before starting, think about the landing. If there is any possibility of rappelling off the end of the rope, tie a big knot in the end of the rope. If rappelling into a pool of water, try to position the end of the rope just at water level to gently rappel off the end into the water and avoid a swimming disconnect. This decreases the risk of loosing the rappel device in the disconnect.
Also think, Do I have to rappel this drop? Can I go around it? Can I down-climb it? Can I jump it? (But be safe. Never jump first into murky water. It could be shallow or have hidden logs. Make use of the buddy system--have your partner jump first!) Rigging an anchor, uncoiling the rope, rappelling, pulling the rope, and re-coiling the rope is time consuming. Rappelling is also dangerous. During the rappel you rely on the security of the anchor and your skill on the rope. Not all rappels are technically easy. Failure at either end can mean disaster. The safest approach may not always be the rappel. Use sound judgment.
[edit] Mistakes to Avoid
After establishing an anchor it is best to clip yourself to it with a canyon quickdraw or safety tether. Anchors are notorious for being positioned on precariously exposed, slippery ledges. Always tie yourself into the anchor before fiddling with the awkward process of getting the rope secured to the anchor and the rappel device clipped in to the rope. The same goes for the rope. Tie a quick figure 8 on a bight and clip the rope into the anchor before running it through the rapide. This will prevent dropping the rope prior to descent.
The speed of descent on rappel relates to the gravitational forces on the rappeller (gravity X mass of rappeller and pack) and the friction that is applied to the rope. The amount of appliable friction increases with the thickness and with the dynamic nature of the rope. Thus, an 8mm, static, single-strand rappel will have profoundly less friction than a 11mm, dynamic, double-strand rappel. Injuries have occurred when canyoneers were surprised by their speedy descent on a thin, single-strand rappel.
One danger of rappelling is that in a panic beginners reach up to grab the anchor line instead of controlling the brake line. This leads to loss of the brake line and loss of the rappel. As canyoneers gain skill, they must learn to overcome this impulse. This can be avoided to some extent by keeping both hands on the brake line.
Before continuing, read Chockstone.org's analysis of other ways to foul a rappel.
[edit] Rappel Devices
There are a number of different rappel devices. Two of the most common are the Figure 8 and the tube device. Each has its own appeal.
While the Figure 8 is probably the most versatile rappel device, it also twists the rope on descent. The ATC style devices have a simple design with a direct feed path that is less wearing on the rope. The straight rope path also allows an ATC style device to accommodate two ropes of different sizes or rates of feed better than the Figure 8.
[edit] Rig the Device
The Figure 8 can be rigged in a number of useful configurations
- On a double rope
- Locked-off
- Canyon or rapide style
- On a single rope with a 'biner block
- On a thin rope
- It can also be rigged as an ascender.
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The ATC style device has a simpler design and fewer configurations.
- On a double rope.
- On a single rope.
Braking is similar with the Figure 8 and ATC style devices. With either, increased friction is applied to the rope by pulling the brake strand taut against the device by sweeping the brake hand downward toward the hip.
[edit] Rigging without Dropping
Fumbling with the rope in one hand and the Figure 8 in the other is one of the best times to drop it.
Here's the sequence to decrease the risk of losing your Figure 8 just when you need it most. An ATC style device can be rigged with a similar sequence, but without the inversion step.
- Clip the Figure 8 to the HMS carabiner on your harness and pull a loop up through the large hole.
- Flip the loop over the end of the Figure 8.
- Now that the Figure 8 is somewhat tied into the rope, unclip it from the carabiner and turn it around.
- Clip the small end into the carabiner.
- Rappel away!
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[edit] Where to Clip the Rappel Device
There has been considerable discussion on the ACA forum regarding the technique of clipping the rappel device to the harness. It is recommended that canyoneers clip the HMS biner directly into the belay loop on the harness. This is simpler and easier than clipping it into both the waist loop and the leg loops of the harness. Simple and easy is also safer.
[edit] Alternatives if You Loose Your Device
[edit] Belaying a Rappel
[edit] Using a belayer from above or below
- From above: Attach a second line to the rappeller and secure it by standard belay techniques. Be sure the point of attachment will not interfere with the rappel device. Pay out the line as the rappeller descends. If they fall, catch them by locking off the rope as you would with any belay. In a sadistic sort of way, one might prefer to attach the belay line using an uncomfortable knot, like a bowline on a coil, so the rappeller really feels their weight when they are caught on belay. This may encourage a more careful descent the next time. Then again, it may not. Belay from above requires a solid stance and a solid anchor as the lives of two people now depend on its security. It should be avoided in a waterfall situation as the two ropes can tangle if the rappeller rotates in the water.
- From below: This is also known as a fire-man belay. The belayer stands at the bottom of the rappel and carefully watches. They stand to the side so that the rappeller doesn't kick rocks down on them or land on them! The belayer should keep only enough slack in the line so the rappeller can comfortably descend. Should the rappeller fall, the belayer pulls down quickly on the line (people accelerate amazingly fast!). This should be quick enough to catch them, but not hard enough to stop their fall absolutely abruptly and injury the rappeller. This places the same force on the brake-hand rope that the rappeller should be applying, but isn't. This works with figure-8 and tube style rappel devices. It works poorly with in-line or rack devices.
Belaying a rappeller requires communication between the person on rappel and on belay. Each team should decide on the sequence of communications at the beginning and end of a rappel so the belayer is actually "on belay" when the rappeller is "on rappel." A typical sequence goes like this:
[edit] Typical belayed-rappel sequence
- Rappeller establishes anchor, clips into anchor with daisy chain or canyon quick-draw and feeds rope through rapide.
- Prior to throwing rope, rappeller anounces, "Rope!"
- Rappeller clips into rope and unclips daisy chain.
- Rappeller: "On Belay!"
- Belayer: "Belay on!"
- Rappeller: "On Rappel!"
- Belayer: "Rappel away!"
- Rappeller rappels.
- Once on the ground rappeller says, "Safe!"
- Belayer: "Off Rappel!"
- Before pulling the rope down rappeller again anounces, "Rope!"
- While the rope falls rappeller tries to grab end for added style points
More info and pictures at at Ozultimate and Chockstone.
[edit] Rappel Order
It is usually safest to have the two most experienced canyoneers rappel first and last. This allows a skilled rappeller to negotiate the technical difficulties of the drop and set up a belay from below. It also leaves someone skilled on top to help everyone else get properly rigged and to set a top belay if needed. This canyoneer should also be able to release a contingency anchor, if one were set, and safely lower a stuck rappeller.
[edit] Dealing with the Rope
It is common for canyons to contain multiple short rappels (say 30-40 feet) as well as longer rappels that require a full rope length (100-200 feet). This means the canyoneer will need to recoil a full-length rope after every drop, even though most of the drops are short. One can either carry a separate short rope for the short drops or use a 'biner block in conjunction with a rope bag. This combination has revolutionized canyon rope management. It allows quick deployment of only the rope needed for the drop without tangling the whole mess.
- Take one end of rope and run it through the rapide.
- Pull out enough rope to reach the bottom. (If you can't see or hear the rope touch the bottom, set a contingency anchor).
- Block that end with either a 'biner block or a knot block
- Throw down the rope bag with the rest of the rope (should deploy smoothly).
- Rappel either single or double stranded (if single stranded, be sure to rappel on the blocked strand!).
- Once down, pull the un-blocked end and stuff the rope back in the rope bag.
- Voila , no tangle, no hassle.
[edit] Links
- Books
There are lots of excellent books from the rock climbing and mountaineering world that detail rappelling and anchor building skills. These pages do not substitute for thorough training.
Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills
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