The Subway - from the bottom

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It was the best of hikes, it was the worst of hikes

The Subway is one of the best routes in the Park, and hiking up from the bottom is by far the worst way to do it. (The Subway - from the top is a more technical route that may be more rewarding for you.) But if you're carrying lots of camera gear, or it is winter, or you are particularly averse to ropes and swims, it makes sense.

The short version goes like this: hike down a 400-foot (120m) steep, loose gully. Pick your way up a rugged streambed for two hours. Enjoy some really nice scenery. Hike back down the streambed for two hours, then up the 400-foot steep, loose gully. If it is at all hot out, hiking in the streambed is hot hot hot. Bad hot, not good hot.

The Left Fork - "The Subway" - is a short, spectacular section of the Left Fork of North Creek, and is more properly called "The Left Fork". The canyon itself is called Great West Canyon. The Subway section is not marked on most maps, but is where the Left Fork tightens up and twists sharply, between North Guardian Angel and Guardian Angel Pass.

Due to its popularity, the Subway is managed under a quota system. Reservations are distributed by lottery several months in advance and are highly recommended. Call the Backcountry Desk (435-772-0170) or use the Internet (http://www.nps.gov/zion). If you do not have reservations, do not fret - there are a limited number of walk-on permits available one day in advance of, or the day of, your hike at the Main and Kolob Canyons Visitor Centers. Be flexible and plan ahead to avoid being denied. In the summer, these walk-on permits are in high demand and are very difficult to obtain. Your only chance is to get there very early in the morning and stand in line two days in advance of the day you want the permit for. The same permit is required for hiking the Subway from the bottom and from the top. Group size limit 12.

Rating: 2B III

Time: six to ten hours.

Season: spring or fall. Most of the hike is exposed to the full sun.

Equipment: wading shoes and ski poles helpful.

[edit] Getting There

From Springdale, drive south and west 14 miles to the town of Virgin. Turn right on the Kolob Reservoir Road. The paved KR (aka KT) road winds through town, then climbs a dramatic ridge in making its way to Kolob Terrace. Eight miles from Virgin, the road enters the park and three trailheads are soon encountered - Left Fork being the third. Park at the Left Fork Trailhead. The trailhead is not shown on many maps, but is close to the Bench Mark labeled BM 5248. Driving time from Springdale is 45 minutes.

[edit] The Trail

Follow the trail into the woods. In 15 minutes, the trail comes out on the rim of the canyon, with a great view of the Left Fork and the Guardian Angels standing proud above. Follow the trail left along the rim to where it drops into the canyon. Take great care to stay on the path as it descends steeply to the canyon floor.

[edit] The Canyon Floor

At the bottom, turn around and make a careful mental note of where the trail up starts. Cross the stream and turn left. This is a backcountry, off-trail route, so there is no official path, though well-established social trails provide easy passage for much of the canyon. Follow social trails up the main canyon, crossing the stream numerous times, for about two hours. The canyon starts wide and gradually narrows as it approaches The Subway.

Close to The Subway, the stream gets more rugged and travel becomes slower and more difficult. Picking through a series of boulders and splashing up the stream, the intrepid Subway hiker finally comes to The Red Waterfalls, where the stream flows down slabs of dark red Kayenta sandstone. Hike up the slabs, then turn the corner and you are at the mouth of The Subway.

[edit] The Subway

'Tis a playground. Walk up through the tunnel of The Subway. The rock can be slippery - be careful walking up here. There are nice pools and small waterfalls as the tunnel worms its way into the rock. After a few minutes, the canyon widens a little and the floor is blocked by a couple of pools. Wade or swim the pools to a corridor that ends in a 20-foot (7 m) waterfall. The ambitious can scramble up ledges on the right (looking up canyon) and explore further. Lots of good stuff up there - exploration for another 20 minutes is possible, until progress is blocked by Keyhole Falls.

[edit] The Walk Out

Return the way you came. It takes most parties at least two hours for the hike out. About one hour downcanyon, look for two large tumbledown boulders close to the water on the right. Their flat, gray faces hold many dinosaur tracks. This is a good place to stop for a snack and rest.

Another hour downcanyon, and it's time to climb to the road. Find the trail on the right side of the creek that starts up the gully. Follow the trail to the top, then to the parking area. Enjoy the ice-cold beverages you left in your cooler.

Original version from Tom's Utah Canyoneering Guide draft of Zion Guidebook