Wetsuit

From CanyonWiki

1 Introduction
2 Types of Wetsuits / Terminology
3 Advantages/Disadvantages of Wetsuits in Canyoneering
4 Purchasing a Wetsuit
5 Wetsuit Thickness
6 Other Notes
7 Outside Links

[edit] Introduction

Wetsuits are exactly that; they are suits that are designed to be wet....all the time.

They are made of neoprene, and are designed to insulate you much as a styrofoam cup would - they prevent most air and (to a certain extent) water from touching you, stealing your heat, and then moving away again (to be replaced by cold air and/or water to repeat the process of cooling).

Unfortunately, some are about as breathable and flexible as a styrofoam cup. However, wetsuits are a great inexpensive way to enjoy cold wet sports such as canyoneering, and that's why they're a great addition to a canyoneer's closet.

[edit] Types of Wetsuits / Terminology

o Spring/Shorty - Usually a thin, short sleeved and short legged wetsuit.

o Diving Suit - Usually dry or semi-dry, these suits are warm. However, they are made of more 'non-compressible' neoprene so that they stay thick and insulative at water depth. This can mean they are less flexible.

o Kayaking Suit - A specific type of suit that usually includes grippy material on the butt, so you can pull and push your whitewater kayak seat easily

o John/Jane Suit - A type of canyoneering 'overalls' - no arms

o Full Wetsuit - Simply, long armed and long legged wetsuit.

o Wetsuit 'Pieces' - Can be any of jacket, hood, even booties, socks, or gloves.

There are some (very few, but some) canyoneering specific wetsuits out there. They usually are thick, flexible, have wicking lining, and good built-in knee and butt pads.

[edit] Advantages/Disadvantages of Wetsuits in Canyoneering

Advantages:

o Cheap!

o If you tear a wetsuit, it still insulates

o Easy to maintain (wash, hang, done)

o Easy to vent (Just unzip! It's meant to be wet....)

o For long swims, you can easily relieve yourself....as long as you aren't wearing a semi-dry suit

Disadvantages:

o Heavy (a 7mm suit weighs about 10 lbs)

o Stinky, especially after hard canyoneering (Remember, the styrofoam cup theory...)

o A real workout to get into

o Prone to flushing (non-perfect water seals makes cold water 'flush' into your suit...just when you've warmed up the water in there to a nice comfortable temperature)

o Works 'against' your body motion all day - like being in a big rubber band

Alternatives:

o Warmer Weather: Drytop, rain pants, and gaiters set up a good water barrier that feels okay when wet (if you like keeping the juices in)

o Colder Weather: Drysuit

Remember, a wetsuit operating in optimal conditions (no tears, proper layering) will never be as warm or versatile as a drysuit in optimal conditions!

[edit] Purchasing a Wetsuit

There are four main factors to look for when purchasing a wetsuit:

(1) Fit - If a wetsuit fits you poorly, you will be cold. Moreover, you will develop rub spots where the loose areas of the wetsuit rubs you all day, which can be very painful! Wetsuits can be a real struggle to get in and out of, but it is worth it to try on a bunch to make sure you have no loose or overly binding areas.

(2) Durability versus Flexibility - The more stretch a wetsuit has, the easier it is to climb in it (and canyoneering involves a lot of climbing, even if only down). However, the more stretchy a wetsuit is, the easier the neoprene catches, snags, and tears. When trying on wetsuits, try stemming in the fitting room (if nothing else, you'll practice your technique) to see where you want to be in this tradeoff. Some more high-end suits have super stretchy neoprene in places where it counts (underarms, back of knees, elbows, etc)

(3) 'Dryness' - Some suits are 'semi-dry'. These usually have some of the following attributes: unfinished (rubbery) neoprene around the neck, arms, and legs to seal against the skin; sealed seams (in addition to being glued and bindstitched) to prevent leaking; drain holes to prevent water flushing on multiple layers, etc. Though not entirely 'dry' it is not uncommon to have dry spots on your t-shirt under the suit even after prolonged swimming! These suits are much warmer for almost no additional weight, but they are often more expensive and complex.

(4) Versatility - Two piece wetsuits (John and Jacket setups, for example) are very versatile, but won't keep you as warm for their weight. However, if you are wearing a full body suit you can't really take off just the top and still easily fiddle with everything on the front of your harness - because the top of your wetsuit will hang over it! Often, you can even wear suits over or under other suits; a common method is to wear a beat up 'shorty' over your warmer full suit for protection of the full suit and added warmth.

There are many other extras, such as attached hood (very warm, but pulls on your neck after a while) easy-to-use zippers and Velcro, durable knee and elbow pads, a comfy wicking finish on the inside, etc. These are all nice, but of course cost extra.

Whatever your choice, make sure you don't spend too much because it will get beat up! Knee pads and elbow pads help protect their respective high-wear areas, and wearing shorts and/or a T-shirt over a suit can help prolong its life.

[edit] Wetsuit Thickness

The thickness of the neoprene between the nylon layers directly translates to the amount of 'dead air space' (or more perhaps aptly, dead water space) a wetsuit can provide. Or, more simply, it describes a wetsuit's warmth. Some wetsuits have multiple numbers - the first number is the torso thickness and then appendages. For example, a 6/3 wetsuit has 6mm total insulation in the torso, and 3mm on arms and legs.

Neoprene compared directly to neoprene in air (non-compressed by depth diving) is pretty much the same. You'll pay more for better neoprene because it's stretchier, or more durable, or whatever, but 6mm cheap neoprene and 6mm expensive neoprene usually insulate about the same.

The thickness of wetsuit you need depends on:

o How cold the water and ambient air temperature is

o How much 'natural' warmth or insulation you personally already have

o How fast you move as a canyoneer

Some canyons have 'standard' recommended thickness wetsuits. Examples include:

- Kolob: 7mm

- Choprock: 4mm

- Lower Eaton, summer: Shortie

- Supercloud: Your skivvies

Usually, if a canyon is narrow (shady), involves a lot of cold water swimming or moving through flowing waterfalls, and it's not high summer, wearing a wetsuit can mean the difference between fun and hypothermia.

[edit] Other Notes

Neoprene can be used in other canyoneering applications such as Gloves and Socks, or also as a form of knee pads or elbow pads.

Garage sales are great places to find cheap wetsuits!!

Not all neoprene is windproof. You can still loose a lot of body heat via wind (especially near waterfalls, which create their own wind). Putting a drytop over your wetsuit (or even a cheap windbreaker) will conserve a lot of heat.