Zion National Park - The Subway - from the top

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"The Subway" is the name for a short section of the Left Fork of North Creek in Zion National Park, where the walls form what looks like a subway tunnel. The Subway can be approached from the bottom, which is a long hike in the hot sun, but non-technical, or from the top. This description is 'from the top'. This is a cross-country travel route and requires good backcountry and navigation skills, plus a bit of gear and some canyoneering skills.

Canyon conditions change on a daily basis. This description applies to the Subway in it's most commonly-entered summer conditions. In times when there is high water - the nature of all the obstacles change drastically.

(This text originally from Tom's Utah Canyoneering Guide, used by permission.)

[edit] The Subway (Left Fork of North Creek), from the top.

The "Subway" is Zion's second most popular backcountry hike for good reason. In a park of exemplary beauty, the Subway is one of the most beautiful canyons. Not to be missed. A few short rappels and a couple of short, mandatory swims add spice to the adventure.

The "Subway" is a short, dramatic section of the Left Fork of North Creek, though the name is also used for the whole hike. The major canyon system west of the main Zion Canyon is called Great West Canyon. The stream in this canyon is North Creek. About 7 miles above Virgin, the canyon splits into the Left Fork (facing up-canyon) and the Right Fork.

The route starts at the Wildcat Canyon Trailhead and descends to the Left Fork via a cross-country route that crosses Russell Gulch, walks out a ridge and descends a steep gully. The Left Fork is followed through the Subway, then downcanyon a few miles. A steep trail is then climbed to the road.

Due to its popularity, the Subway is managed under a quota system. Reservations are distributed by lottery several months in advance and are highly recommended. Call the Backcountry Desk (435-772-0170) or use the Internet (www.nps.gov/zion). If you do not have reservations, do not fret - there are a limited number of permits available one day in advance of, or the day of, your hike at the Main and Kolob Canyons Visitor Centers. Be flexible and plan ahead to avoid being denied.

[edit] Skills Required

The Subway is a strenuous and demanding backcountry hike with several short rappels and a couple of pools to swim. Good navigational skills and a map are required. Straying into the more difficult terrain on either side of the approach trail, or missing the exit trail, is hazardous. There are three short drops that most people will want a rope for. Folks should know how to rappel, and how to set up and use obvious anchors. The Subway also throws a few cold swims at you, so you'll need drybags for your gear, and if it is not stinking hot out, you might want a wetsuit.

For the less ambitious hiker, the best part of the Subway is accessible by hiking up from the bottom (see The Subway - from the bottom in non-technical canyons).

• Rating: 3(-)B III
• Time: six to twelve hours.
• Season: summer or fall. The approach hike and lower canyon are exposed to the full sun.
• Longest Rappel: 30 feet (10 meters).
• Equipment:
  • 60 foot rope, rappelling gear.
  • A few slings and rappel rings for rigging rappels.
  • Drybags or Dry Kegs for your gear.
  • Wetsuits are recommended in all but the hottest weather.

[edit] Getting Started.

The Subway starts at the Wildcat Canyon Trailhead on the Kolob Terrace Road, and ends at the Left Fork Trailhead. In the summer, it is easy to hitch a ride from the Left Fork Trailhead the further 8 miles to the Wildcat Canyon Trailhead. If you have but one car, leave the car at the bottom (Left Fork Trailhead) with water, food and clothing. Hitching a ride is easier at the beginning of the day, when you are clean and smell nice. In summer, get an early start to avoid the hot sun.

From Springdale, drive south and west 14 miles to the town of Virgin. Turn right on the Kolob Reservoir Road. The paved KR (aka KT) road winds through town, then climbs a dramatic ridge in making its way to Kolob Terrace. Eight miles from Virgin, the road enters the park and three trailheads are soon encountered - Left Fork being the third. Park or spot a car or here. Drive or hitch the further 8 miles up the road to the Wildcat Canyon Trailhead. Driving time from Springdale is about 45 minutes.

[edit] Approach:

The hike starts as a pleasant stroll across the open meadows of Kolob Terrace. Open areas are interspersed with stands of Ponderosa Pine. After 20 minutes, the signed Hop Valley Connector Trail comes in from the right. Continue straight. Five minutes later, the signed Northgate Peaks Trail comes in on the right - take this. A few minutes down the Northgate Peaks Trail, take a trail left to the top of a slickrock area. There is a sign here: "Subway Hikers". The maintained trail ends here.

It is important to find and follow the unofficial trail that leads to the gully down to the Left Fork. For the most part, the path is clear, but there are a few places where it is easily lost. Make SURE you follow the trail. In 2002, two different parties strayed from the trail. One fell over a 30-foot cliff and broke both legs and some vertebrae. The other party spent a cold night out on a small ledge.

Work your way down the slickrock into the drainage before you, trending right and following numerous small cairns. At the base of the slickrock, pick up a small trail leading through a delightful forest. (Take the right-most of 2 trails).

After a few minutes, the trail enters a rocky area with scattered bushes, and heads down and left into a shallow drainage. Follow the drainage, then walk a ridge to its end, and a good view of Russell Gulch below.

Take a good look at the terrain across the way. The trail can be seen below crossing the watercourse of Russell Gulch above a 30' drop, then making its way into the woods and toward a slickrock pass with a pinnacle in the middle. Descend a steep step and follow the trail across the stream, through the woods and up to the slickrock pass. Descend the slabs on the other side and pick up a small trail that continues at the same elevation out to a wooded point overlooking the confluence of Russell Gulch and the Left Fork. Descend a steep, sandy gully to the bottom of Russell Gulch.

If, at any point on the approach, the trail is lost, backtrack to where you are definitely on the trail. Though unofficial, the trail is well marked and heavily used, but it takes a few sharp turns that can be missed. Wandering off the trail is dangerous.

The two-hour hike to this point is mostly in the full sun. At the bottom of Russell Gulch, a pool and shade offer respite from the heat. Many folks eat lunch here.

[edit] Canyon:

Fifty feet from the bottom of the gully, Russell Gulch intersects the Left Fork. Turn right and follow the dry canyon ten minutes to the First Obstacle - a jumble of giant boulders. Scramble right to a 20-foot (6m) drop where a giant boulder sits against the right canyon wall.

[edit] First Obstacle:

There are several ways to manage getting your group past this obstacle.

To the right, against the canyon wall, is a V-Slot with a small chunk of log at the top. This is not the way. Six feet (2m) back along the canyon wall from the V-Slot is a pinch, where a boulder leans securely against the wall, forming a place that can be slung for an anchor. It might have a sling on it. This is the anchor. To the left of the V-Slot is a giant boulder. The boulder has a large, flat face downcanyon - this is the face to descend.

Passing the First Obstacle: A. The recommended and most conservative method is to rappel the face of the boulder using the pinch as an anchor. This requires about 60 feet of rope, plus a sling and rappel ring. Run the rope over the crest of the boulder, and make sure the rope does not slide to the side. Given the friction across the top of the boulder, it is imperative to use a rappel ring or retrieving the rope will prove rather difficult.

B. The left side of the boulder's face (left looking downcanyon) provides a downclimb (5.5) for the experienced climber. The holds are fairly big and the landing flat. However, it is still 20 feet to the ground, and extreme caution should be used. More than one leg has broken in this spot - and the evacuation is difficult.

C. In many cases, all members of the party but one can rappel the face of the boulder, and the most agile member can downclimb the left side of the face, with spotting and encouragement from below. Leave the best climber for last.

Continue downcanyon. A few nice potholes are avoided by clambering around the sides, but about 15 minutes below the First Obstacle, the Double Pool presents the canyoneer with the first required swim. Make sure your stuff is properly drybagged, and swim the two pools. A few minutes downcanyon, small springs start to provide a flow of water in the canyon. Fifteen minutes downcanyon, the canyon forms a slot filled with water. Downclimb a couple of short drops and swim under two chockstones, then out a long, cold corridor. (The slot can be avoided by a high, awkward traverse on the left, followed by a short rappel: not recommended).

[edit] Subway Section:

The canyon in this section is exceptionally beautiful. Five or ten minutes downstream, the final "Subway" section begins at Keyhole Falls. The stream drops through a slot with a small arch on the left. Rappel 10 feet from bolts on the right, into water that is usually waist deep. Downclimbing this waterfall is difficult because the landing is very uneven.

You are in an amazing corridor . Swim through an arch on the left for maximum style points. At the end of the corridor, the canyon turns sharply right and forms some nice pools. Downclimb a small drop and wind downcanyon. At a logjam, the stream plunges through the logs to make a waterfall. Carefully cross the top of the waterfall to the ledge on canyon left. Walk out this ledge 50 feet (15m). A bolt anchor allows a rappel 30 feet (10m) to the canyon floor, or a series of ledges before the bolts allows the more agile to downclimb and traverse ledges to drop to the canyon floor 20 feet (6m) before the base of the waterfall.

Continue downcanyon past some lovely pools. The footing can be slippery here, so be careful. This is the famous "Subway" section, the curving canyon walls calling to mind underground trolleys. The canyon opens up and flattens out. Groups often remove their wetsuits and harnesses here, and warm up in the sun. If it is really stinking hot out, take a siesta until the sun is lower in the sky.

[edit] Walk Out

The walkout can be taxing. The first part descends marvelous and photogenic red ledges with waterfalls. A few minutes below the red ledges, a spring drops water into the stream on the right. Following paths on both banks and crossing the stream many times, make your way downcanyon. It takes most parties about two hours for the hike out. About one hour downcanyon, look for two large tumble-down boulders close to the water on the right. Their flat, gray faces hold many dinosaur tracks.

Another hour downcanyon, and it's time to exit up to the road. Missing the exit is easy, so make sure you pay attention. Two streams come into the Left Fork from the north (right). One third of a mile (1/2 km) past the second stream, the exit gully will be in front of you. The north (right) wall of the canyon is a 400-foot (120m), steep, tree-covered talus slope with 400-foot (120m) vertical sandstone walls above. Downstream, the sandstone at the top ends and a black lava flow replaces the steep talus. The trail out climbs the crease below the left edge of the vertical sandstone to where it meets the lava flow.

The climb out is extremely hot - the black rock traps the heat well. Take a final dip in the stream before starting the steep, 400-foot climb. Find a well-established trail on the right side of the creek that starts up a gully. Do not begin the climb up without finding the trail. At the top of the slope, the trail traverses left to the top of the lava flow and works its way left through ledges to the mesa top above. Follow the trail through the pinon-juniper forest 1/2 mile (800m) to the parking area. Enjoy the ice-cold beverages you left in your cooler.